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Au Maroc est un reportage fort intéressant que Pierre Loti a écrit pendant sa mission dans ce pays, à la suite d'une délégation guidée par le ministre plénipotentiaire Patenôtre, invité par le Sultan de Fès. Nous sommes en pleine époque coloniale, mais l'écrivain, de par sa nature cosmopolite, était déjà arabophile, et de plus marocophile, et n'avait aucun préjugé à l'égard de l'Islam. Il produit ainsi un essai passionnant qui décrit les paysages, les villes, les villages, les gens, avec amour et passion, sans toutefois jamais céder à la banalité de la « carte postale », et, d'ailleurs, il décrit les inévitables misères avec un réalisme sans pitié. Un livre précieux à la fois pour ceux qui veulent revivre les atmosphères romantiques de l'exotisme de l'époque et ceux qui veulent comprendre une importante partie du monde arabe dans ses transformations complexes.

Au Maroc Chapter 1 No.1

26 mars 1889.

Des c?tes sud de l'Espagne, d'Algésiras, de Gibraltar, on aper?oit là-bas, sur l'autre rive de la mer, Tanger la Blanche.

Elle est tout près de notre Europe, cette première ville marocaine, posée comme en vedette sur la pointe la plus nord de l'Afrique; en trois ou quatre heures, des paquebots y conduisent, et une grande quantité de touristes y viennent chaque hiver. Elle est très banalisée aujourd'hui, et le sultan du Maroc a pris le parti d'en faire le demi-abandon aux visiteurs étrangers, d'en détourner ses regards comme d'une ville infidèle.

Vue du large, elle semble presque riante, avec ses villas alentour baties à l'européenne dans des jardins; un peu étrange encore cependant, et restée bien plus musulmane d'aspect que nos villes d'Algérie, avec ses murs d'une neigeuse blancheur, sa haute casbah crénelée, et ses minarets plaqués de vieilles fa?ences.

* * *

C'est curieux même comme l'impression d'arrivée est ici plus saisissante que dans aucun des autres ports africains de la Méditerranée. Malgré les touristes qui débarquent avec moi, malgré les quelques enseignes fran?aises qui s'étalent ?à et là devant des h?tels ou des bazars,-en mettant pied à terre aujourd'hui sur ce quai de Tanger au beau soleil de midi,-j'ai le sentiment d'un recul subit à travers les temps antérieurs... Comme c'est loin tout à coup, l'Espagne où l'on était ce matin, le chemin de fer, le paquebot rapide et confortable, l'époque où l'on croyait vivre!... Ici, il y a quelque chose comme un suaire blanc qui tombe, éteignant les bruits d'ailleurs, arrêtant toutes les modernes agitations de la vie: le vieux suaire de l'Islam, qui sans doute va beaucoup s'épaissir autour de nous dans quelques jours quand nous nous serons enfoncés plus avant dans ce pays sombre, mais qui est déjà sensible dès l'abord pour nos imaginations fra?chement émoulues d'Europe.

Deux gardes au service de notre ministre, Sélem et Kaddour, pareils à des figures bibliques dans leurs longs vêtements de laine flottante, nous attendent au débarcadère pour nous conduire à la légation de France.

Ils nous précèdent gravement, écartant de notre route, avec des batons, les innombrables petits anes qui remplacent ici les camions et les chariots tout à fait inconnus. Par une sorte de voie étroite, nous montons à la ville, entre des rangées de murs crénelés, qui s'étagent en gradins les uns au-dessus des autres, tristes et blancs comme des neiges mortes. Les passants qui nous croisent, blancs aussi comme les murs, tra?nent sans bruit leurs babouches sur la poussière, avec une majestueuse insouciance, et, rien qu'à les voir marcher, on devine que les empressements de notre siècle n'ont pas prise sur eux.

Dans la grande rue, qu'il nous faut traverser, il y a bien quelques boutiques espagnoles, quelques affiches fran?aises ou anglaises, et, à la foule des burnous, se mêlent, hélas! quelques messieurs en casques de liège ou quelques gentilles misses voyageuses, ayant des coups de soleil sur les joues. Mais, c'est égal, Tanger est encore très arabe, même dans ses quartiers marchands.

Et plus loin-aux abords de la légation de France où l'hospitalité m'est offerte-commence le dédale des petites rues étroites ensevelies sous la chaux blanche, demeuré intact, comme au vieux temps.

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Au Maroc Au Maroc Pierre Loti Literature
“Au Maroc est un reportage fort intéressant que Pierre Loti a écrit pendant sa mission dans ce pays, à la suite d'une délégation guidée par le ministre plénipotentiaire Patenôtre, invité par le Sultan de Fès. Nous sommes en pleine époque coloniale, mais l'écrivain, de par sa nature cosmopolite, était déjà arabophile, et de plus marocophile, et n'avait aucun préjugé à l'égard de l'Islam. Il produit ainsi un essai passionnant qui décrit les paysages, les villes, les villages, les gens, avec amour et passion, sans toutefois jamais céder à la banalité de la « carte postale », et, d'ailleurs, il décrit les inévitables misères avec un réalisme sans pitié. Un livre précieux à la fois pour ceux qui veulent revivre les atmosphères romantiques de l'exotisme de l'époque et ceux qui veulent comprendre une importante partie du monde arabe dans ses transformations complexes.”
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Chapter 33 A MéKINEZ

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