Pictures in Umbria

LO P

st street in Perugia. The shop windows had the day before been made extra gay,

r, as it is also called, Palazzo Comunale. This has a richly-sculptured doorway, and ends on the Piazza del Duomo; it has quaint iron lamps. On this Piazza, an

This belonged to the clergy, and was the dwelling of those Popes who stayed in Peru

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stume is given in the initial, is said to have sculptured the twenty-four statues, now dark with age, but remarkable for the sharpness of their exquisite carving; two of the statues are, however, restorations. The delicate bas-reliefs of the second basin are ascribed to Giovanni Pisano, and are full of variety; the upp

attacks on the city, some mercenary soldiers wrenched them away. The griffin, the quaint emblem of Perugia, is to be found repeated in all the decorative work of the city. The Palazzo Pubblico was built early in the fourteenth century from the design of the Benedictine, Fra Bevignate. The heads of criminals used to be fixed on the steel lances which projec

its associations: three Popes who died in Perugia are buried in one tomb in a transept, and in a chapel

his a bronze statue, vivid green in colour, is raised high on a pedestal. An inscripti

E STA

JULIU

ct of blessing. It almost seems that during these long years the golden sunshine, mingled with the intense blue of the sky, has created the b

in its full meridian glow, or in the gloom that comes to Perugia so swiftly at the

proudly to the grand group presented by the fountain and the Palazzo Comunale; at midday the expression is harder; but at eventid

l Duomo, when the Perugians flung their grandest vanities into a heap and burned them as a proof of penitence, as the Tuscans did at

ved that it might serve as a specimen pattern of the variously paved streets in the town. Tufts of grass between the stones show that this way is not much used. Its right side is walled by the church of Santa Maria Nuova, and high above it on the

za marks the summit of one of the two hills on which ancient Perugia was built by the Etruscans; the other hill, Colle Landone, is crowned by Palazzo Donnini, and till

Sopra Mura, where the weekly market is held, takes its n

del of Monte Sole with his palaces at Porta San Antonio. On this occasion the nobles joined hands with the citizens against

h of Santa Maria Nuova, while the houses of the town lay thickly clustered below. The ancient wall from which we now gaze runs out northward on the right, and on the left goes on till it reaches the famous Etruscan arch near the Piazza Grimani. Beyond are the he

ly, the bloodthirsty Baglioni. Had the brutal nobles and the proud citizens been able to control their passions, and to discip

fend herself against Papal plots and aggression; almost constantly against the tyranny of her rival nobles, and the mischiefs

scene of the fierce struggles which make the eventful history of the hill-city; for until the time of Paul the Third, Perug

ity at the head of the banished Raspanti, and became supreme ruler in the name of the people. Broils were still frequent betwe

the Captain's success, and justly estimated his power; he resolved

, with whom he hoped, now that the city enjoyed comparative quiet, to end his days in peac

vi together, and rode on to Michelotti's palace on Monte Sole. As soon as Michelotti came down to greet his visitor the Abbot put his arm ro

d sagacious ruler was defeated in battle, and died from the wounds he received. This was a terrible loss; it alarmed the Perugians, for though Forte Braccio was of noble birth, being Conte di Montone, he had protecte

t the people, and, quitting their houses in the country around the city, they established themse

he Perugians suffered terribly, for, while the long struggle lasted, the Pope, the nobles, and Piccinino, who was liked by the people and idolised by the army, all levied taxe

heroes of the Iliad, and one wonders whether the old pagans were not better men than those so-called Christians, were always at war with the Oddi, till at last they worsted t

ello; they also owned Spoleto, and some others of the hill-cities of Umbria. These possessions brought them great wealth. They were cruel and tyra

s, and in proportion to their means fully as arrogant and prodigal. But people were not afraid of them; they had neither wealth to keep bravi with, nor influence to support and further their pretensions. These poor relations could no longer endure their dependent position; they saw

r their prowess and heroic bravery, as for their good looks; these were Astorre, Adriano (usually called Morgante, becau

utiful wife, and was on friendly terms with all his cousins. His father, Grifone, had died young in battle; his still young and lovely mother, Atalanta Baglione, was extremely rich. She so greatly loved

ay dead at his feet. Till he had killed many more he persevered in attacking the foe with intense fury, until he had received twenty-two wounds. Then his cousin Astorre rode forth to help him. "Go and tend your wounds, Simonetto," he cried, and dashed at the common enemy; a falcon flashed on his gilded helmet, with the griffin's tail sweeping behind it. At once he became a target for the Oddi, their blows fell so thick and fast that each hindered the other from striking truly; nothing could be heard above the din of the strokes made by lances, partizans, crossbow quarries,

but a war followed which devastated the

er of Perugino, and it is thought that he must have witnessed this splendid defence of Astorre Baglione, and that he afterwards reproduced the young warri

and the restless ambition of the Baglioni, this state of affairs might have lasted. Three of the evil and disappointed relatives clung to Grifonetto like limpets; these were his uncle Filippo, his cousin Carlo Baciglia Baglione, and a scandalously dissolute scoundrel named Jeronimo della Penna or Arciprete. They took counsel together as to how the sons of Guido and Ridolfo Baglione could be easiest put out of the way, so that their wealth and power m

ded that this marriage, which was to happen at the end of July, would be a great opportunity for ridding themselves of their hated kindr

y must at once win over Grifonetto to their schemes. They therefore told him that Zenobia, the beautiful

nd thirsted for vengeance: he consented to head the conspiracy, and t

ers of the Corgna family and others; only two of those who en

the wonder of Perugia, and always pointed out to strangers as a marvel of magnificence both inside and out. Among his other treasures, Grifonetto possessed a lion; Astorre and Gianpa

eep the signal should be given; this was to be a stone thrown from

were present; they appeared to be on the most friendly terms with the others, and were even affectionate and caressing to all,-yet the traitors h

e of the Corgna family unlocked the door of valiant Astorre, who, asleep with his newly-married wife, was thus murderously awakened; the young fellow opened the door, and, seeing his murderers, he guessed the truth. As they attacked him he cried out, "Wretched Astorre, who dies like a coward." His young wife rushed up to him, and flung her arms round him, trying to make her body a shield between him and his assailants, but they had already stabbed him with many more blows than would have sufficed to kill him, and she too received a wound. Then the brutal Filippo di Braccio, seeing how

aken alarm, and so had his squire. But Gianpaolo was sagacious as well as brave, and, not knowing who were his assailants, he bade

mind, in his ignorance as to the conspirators, to seek shelter there; but he gave up the idea, and climbed through a window into another house, owned by one of the citizens; the good man within was so terrified at the sight of Baglione, that, in his fear, he refused to

scovered the meaning of this night attack, or taken vengeance on the unknown assassins. In the meantime day had broken, and Gentile Baglione, who lived some way from his father's house, had been also attacked by the c

her own dwelling on the Colle Landone. She had nothing with her but the cloak she wore, and when she learned in detail the events of the night she solemnly vowed she would never again cross her son's threshold. Grifonetto had quickly repented his crime. His eyes had opened to the wickedness into which his mad jealousy had betrayed him. As soon as he learned his mother's departure he followed her, but he w

e Guido was now the head of the Baglioni, returned to Perugia with the troops he and his brothers had rallied round them, they were met at the city gate by an excited crowd of citizens; for though some of the Perugians still sided with their favourite Grifonetto, the larger portion abhorred his foul treason, and longed to see it avenged. Gianpaolo, seeing the concourse and hearing the cries of welcome, asked graciously that the ladies present in the crowd would be good enough to pray for

d with remorse for his share in the unnatural crime, and heart-broken by his mot

u traitor Grifonetto; thou art"-Then he added, "Go, in God's name, for I will not kill you;

Grifonetto not yet dead, but bleeding from every wound. His mother fell on her knees beside him; she assured him of her forgiveness, and gave him her blessing in place of the curse she had laid on him. She implored him to pardon his murderers, and to give her a sign that he did so. At this the dying youth clasped the white hand of his young mother, wh

fought on the Piazza, and in the cathedral itself, for Gianpaolo had caused a large fire to be kindled before the door, so as to gain access to the interior; even those who took refuge at the

uld be solemnly hung with black, as a token of mourning for the victims of "el gran tradimento,"-a term which Matarazzo constantly repeats. Gianpaolo also gave command that the cathedral of San Lorenzo should be washed

ule in the city, except that of might against right; every man who was powerful enough took the law in his own hands: rapine, murder, plunder, reigned unchecked. When the Popes, aware of the persistent excesses, sent now and again a legate to control and modify disorder, and

tested Papal government, they had suffered so severely under the Baglioni tyranny that th

ed him to Rome by sending him a safe-conduct. On his arrival the Pope caused him

in the States of the Church. One of them, Malatesta Baglione, proved himself a most infamous traitor; he sold himself to Pope Clement VII., and, for his

c., granted by his predecessors, and built a huge citadel to overawe the town, actually removing one of the Etruscan gates, the Porta Marzia (now restored to its ori

ny, but this little incident at its beginning, taken from an

the Duke's permission to fight out their quarrel in his presence on the Piazza of Perugia. The Duke gave consent, and ordered that they should fight before the

t last Agostino, of Pistoia, who was both hands

and grievous wounds the Pistonian had given him, Antonio was considered by many as good as dead, and was car