Pictures in Umbria

FAE

in and out in the sunshine; presently we found ourselves under the lofty walls that once supported the fortress built by command of Pope Paul III.,

the citizens of Perugia pulled down and utterly destroyed this hated fortr

treets behind it, especially with the frowning walls, than are the modern buildings that n

of green acacias, we climbed by a wide flight of shallow brick steps past the picturesque church of San Ercolano, t

the Palazzo Baglione which fronts the next street, Via Riario; the very name

n which is a portion of the veritable Etruscan wall of Perugia, in excellent preservation. Some of the stones are about thirteen feet long and eighteen inches thick, huge

ravertine are certainly the finest specimens we saw in the city. The old wall went on from them by way of the Porta Marzia to the Porta Eburnea, then northwards (there are visible fragments of it

outh, over the garden of San Pietro de Casinensi, then kept in order by the boys of the reformatory. The fine old machicolated spire of San

en we turned from this lovely and varied landscape

DOME

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ging from a rough brass watch chain, much the worse for wear, was a little bunch of hairs from a horse's tail, set as a charm, and considered to be a speci

oms, not only a very interesting and valuable collection of implements and other articles, beginning at the Stone Age, but also a collection of amulets and charms.

, the Professor said, used to be hung at the bed-head of the owner, between pictures of saints

o hundred specimens; it is full of interest, a

epsy and kindred disorders. Tradition said that this bit of bone had belonged to the skull of a person, dead some two hundred years before, who ha

course of excavations, to find a bit of the skull missing, and this amu

-head, to protect her from the spells of a witch. She would only part from it on condition that she might reserve some sp

for safety in teething, for protection against "mal occhio," to stop bleeding, and above all, for the cure of melancholy. The dark stone with red spots, which I have heard cal

om time immemorial it had been held in reverence, and in which its influence was supposed to have maintained perfect harmony among the inmates of th

ns in his pocket, and to fling them abroad as an offering when he comes near to a cross-road, for assuredly a witch lies there in ambush, ready to work him harm. Also, when the traveller sees in some unfrequented by-roa

UTSIDE SAN

nger and little finger, the other fingers closed, pointed in defence against "mal occhio." It is possible that this belief in

pper storeys to be demolished. The original church is said to have been built early in the fourteenth century, from the designs of Giovanni Pisano; it was, however, almost all rebuilt three centuries later. The very large and richly coloured east window, and the beautiful tomb with its remarkable canopy, were bo

e city seemed suddenly galvanised into vivacious colour, for Piazza Sopra Mura was thronged with merry chattering crowds of mark

SOPRA

del Capitano del Popolo or del Podestà, and the ancient university, are now used as Law Courts. One can fancy the sometimes inflammatory, sometimes soothing discourses that have been pronounced from the ringhiera of the ancient Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. Nearly opposite this building stands a fountain. The laughing, gest

a little distance like some huge tulip-bed, so bright was the orange, chocolate, scarlet, and rose colour mingled with white and green. The laughing women mos

, that set off the orange-brown of her skin and her clear blue eyes. Her features were regular; she had not lost her teeth, so that the form of her mouth was still good. She had been bargaining and

d blue eyes and beautiful red-gold hair, and were set on round pillar-like throats and well-developed figures. Others-and perhaps the greater number of the town shop-keeping class-had a far less refined type of face, turned-up noses and sensual mouths; thoug

er head, up and down the hills and hilly streets, gives to the peasa

girl who kept a handkerchief stall greatly amused us. I had been trying to bargain with her for some of h

er ideas on the subject, we ma

talls, where we stood studying heaps of lemons, full of colour from bluish green to most golden o

ers; the lemon heaps, some exquisitely green, with a leaf or so hanging from the fruit stalks, have dwindled till the remaining fruit lies flat on the large board