Pictures in Umbria

ctions defy analysis; one in which beauty is subtle, compounded of many and varied qualitie

g, nor even in the trick of a smile; the spell is so potent, that when one at last tries to find out its secret, the mind refuses to di

, but in the former, association often intrudes itself, a

king at the old grey walls of Perugia, the mind strays backward, to times when these ancient palaces wit

blood has run like water in the grass-grown streets and piazzas,-and not only with the blood of an Oddi, shed by a fierce Ba

en fought hand to hand in the constant brawls of Perugia; murder wa

and hill-girdled city, and permeate the atmosphere, in spite of

Raffaelle. Giovanni came to Perugia to place the lad with the illiterate genius of Città del Pieve, Pietro Vannucci, whose praise was in every one's mouth, and who had a

made a striking picture as they came from the dark archway into the sunlight,-Raffaelle mou

ly eleven years old, yet his father already firmly believed in his genius, and had brought him all the way from Città del Pieve to present him to the great Umbrian master, Benedetto Bonfigli, who was then at work on the famous frescoes still to be seen in the P

and ease, to say nothing of higher qualities, which have rarely been excelled. Yet, except in the frescoes of the beautiful Sala del Cambio, much of P

ear the old church and convent of San Pietro de Casinensi; for by this gate is the w

ious fascination which the grey old city o

iaduct; but these travellers do not come under the spell of the place; they see only an old city, part Etruscan, part Roman, chiefly medi?

e-groves, golden with plots of maize; later on they are studies of g

y, above which the old city shows her towers and massive walls; they will, perhaps, notice, as they go downhill again, how quaintly the wall is carried in and out, starwise, as it follows the indentations of the hills, and how boldly at each pr

y cling to the mountain-side, a pale rose against the flame-like orange tint that seems to burn

n the valley, or to visit the many places of interest which can be reached from Perugia. They

long wanderings through the narrow streets, often deeply shado

are frequent, sometimes low-browed and round-headed, mere tunnels through which one almost gropes one's way, and finds at the farther end a sudden descent down a flight of half-ruined brick steps, which turn so quickly that a keen

upon some fresh interest; some portion of Etruscan wall, or some exquisite point of view; a vista at the far-off end

realising the peculiarity of its form. It is said to be that of a star; but it is more like a lobster, with its head on one side, and outstretche

ni. On our first visit this hotel was in progress of erection, but its predecessor existed in the house on the spur of t

rget the delight of

vel in daytime, so we left Florence at night, and had a

and flowers, showing curios on the wall behind them; to our joy, when we reached our charming cool room

bloom and a group of sun-flowers. Oleanders, covered with rosy blossoms, stood at the garden entrance; beyond was a bower of golden-green acacias, wreath

e hotel removed to its present quarters in the large house at the beginning of the city. The views from the Brufa

ni, have passed away, but the well-arranged house

IN B