Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North

oming acquainted with its inhabitants, their manners and customs. I

d can read and write, and that at least a Bible, but generally other religions books also, are found in every cot,-one feels inclined to consider this nation the best and most civilised in Europe. I deemed their morality sufficiently secured by the absence of foreign intercourse, by their isolated position, and the poverty of the country. No la

joiced at the anticipation of seeing such an Idyllic life realised. I felt so happy when

more prosaic form than other travellers. I do not maintain that my view is right, but I at least poss

ion I had formed of them. I now came to the working classes in the vicinity of Reikjavik. The saying often applied to th

ss than the extortionate prices with which they tried to impose on a stranger. For a beetle, such as could be found under every stone, they asked 5 kr. (about 2d.); as much for a caterpillar, of which thousands were lying on the beach; and for a common bird's egg, 10 to 20 kr. (4d. to 8d.) Of course, when I declined buying, they reduced their demand, sometimes to less than half the original sum; but this was certainly not in consequence of their honesty. The baker

wished also to take a trip, and sent for my guide. The latter expected to be better paid by him, and went; he did not come to me to discharge himself, but merely sent me word on the e

herefore anticipated a twofold pleasure from my journey into the interior. I found many virtues, but u

even permit their children to touch any thing. In this point they are so conscientious, that if a peasant comes from a distance, and wishes to rest in a

the chief warden many years since. Small crimes are punished summarily, either in Reikjavik or at the seat

ted in Iceland during the thirteen years that he had resided there. This was the murder of an il

was somewhat rarer with the women. Youths and men often wrote a firm, good hand. I also found books in e

quickness is doubly surprising, if we consider that every father instructs his own children, and sometimes the neighbou

1846. In this school only youths who can read and write are received, and they are either educated for priests, and may

al languages, such as Latin, Danish, and, since 1846, Ger

ermen, as assistants, taking a portion of the fish as their wages. Fishing is attended to at other times also, but then exclusively by the real fishermen. In the months of July and August many of the latter go into the interior and assist in the hay-harvest, for wh

ying, smoking, or salting; in tending the cattle, in knitting, somet

who did not accept the proffered gift without hesitation. But I must say of the priests that they were every where obliging and ready to serve me, and satisfied with the smallest gift; and their charges, when I required horses for my excursions, were always moderate. I only found the peasant less interested in districts where a traveller scarcely ever appeared; but in such places as were more visited,

belong to the best; and that they take advantage of travellers wi

more industriously. It is dreadful to see what deep root this vice has taken. Not only on Sundays, but also on week-days, I met peasants who were so

s, and even many of the priests, have no proper snuff-box, but only a box turned of bone, shaped like a powder-flask. When they take snuff, they throw back their head, insert the point of the

ders. If I were to describe a portion only of what I experienced, my readers would think me guilty of gross exaggeration; I prefe

han the people. If they would only make ditches, and thus dry the ground, they would have the most splendid grass. That this would grow abundantly is proved by the little elevations which ris

and perseverance. He agreed with me, and thought that even potato-fields might be reclaimed, if only the people were not so lazy, preferring to suffer hunger and resign all the comforts of cleanliness rather than to w

which, without any cultivation, have reached a height of seven to eight feet. Herr Boge, established here

ndred sheep, ten to fifteen cows, and ten to twelve horses. There are not many who are so rich, but at all events they are better off than the

many Icelanders, not only by peasants, but also by people of t

the whole year, and only come to one of the ports in the beginning of July, for one day at the utmost, to buy several necessaries, for which they pay in money. They then vanish suddenly, and no one knows in which direction they

d a wish to have the command of twenty to twenty-fi

od earth iron, have shoes of horn; and that they have much money, which they can only have acquired by pillage. When I inquired what respectable inhabitants of Iceland had been ro

ICELAND.-JOURNE

ling of the vessel which was destined to bring me nearer my beloved home. But I had to stay four very long weeks in Reikjavik, my

Copenhagen, invited me to accompany him on his return; but all the vessels went to England or to Spain, and I did not wish to visit eit

there rarely is more than one in such a small vessel,-and I deemed myself lucky to obtain the one in the other ship. Herr Bernh?ft thought, indeed, that the vessel might be too bad for such a long journey, and proposed to examine it, and report on its condition. But as

uch from home-sickness, that she was determined, under any circumstances, to see her beloved fatherland again. If, thought I to myself, the ho

e of Haabet (hope), and belonged t

house, being in constant expectation of a summons on board. Violent storms unfortunately prevente

magnificent and overpowering scenes, but lovelier and more cheerful ones. The separation from Herr Knudson and the family of Bernh?ft was more difficult. I owed all the kindness

y flags and streamers with which the French frigate anchoring here h

l that I had involuntarily seen had not impressed me very favourably. I determined also not to enter the cabin

s, and a cabin-boy, who bore the title of cook; we a

o other way than to ask our host the captain. He shewed it me at once, by sitting at the entrance and letting his feet down. Let the reader imagine such a proceeding with our long dresses, and, above all, in bad weather, when the ship was pitched about by storms. But the thought that many other people are worse off, and c

bably never had the opportunity of being in such a vessel, I wish to describe it to them very accurately. All who are accustomed to the sea will testify that I have adhered strictly to the truth. But to return to the sloop. Its age emulated mine, she being a relic of the last century. At that time little regard was paid to the convenience of passengers, and the space was all made available for f

wo cavaliers-the captain and the steersman-were obliged to stand before the table, and eat their meals in that position. The table was so small tha

to be bathed by a wave, than to be half stifled below. Sometimes, however, I was obliged to descend, either when rain and storms were too violent, or when the ship was so tossed by contrary winds that the deck was not safe. The rolling and pitching of our little vessel was often so terrible, that we ladies could neither sit nor stand, and we

ter having the colour of tea. The sailors imbibed theirs without sugar, but the captain and the steersman took a small piece of candied sugar, w

h, that only a sailor's palate can possibly enjoy it. Instead of soup, vegetables, and pudding, we had pearl-barley boiled in water, without salt or butter; to which

ere boiled hard and without butter, they were the most eatable of all the dishes. On the fourth day the bill of fare of the first was repeated, and t

aily supply, and then only in spring; for potatoes the season was not advanced enough. My readers have now a picture of the luxurious life I led on board the ship. Had I been fortunate enough to voyage in a better vessel, where the passengers are more commodiously lodged and better fed, the seasickness would certain

ine was confirmed by our captain and steersman: instead of

t eggs, which he had brought from Denmark, boiled for us four peop

nwise thought, and discovered how important this cloth was. One morning I saw our valet treating a piece of sailcloth quite outrageously: he had spread it upon the deck, stood upon it, and brushed it clean with the ship's broom. I recognised our tablecloth by the many spots of dirt and grease, and in the evening found the table bare. But

ss than that our little vessel was constantly letting in a considerable quantity of water, which had to be pumped out every few hours. The captain tried to allay my uneasiness by asserting that every ship admitted water, and o

the deep instead, but we met with scarcely any of these amiable animals. I saw the ray of water which a whale emitted from his nostrils, and which exactly resembled a fountain; the animal itself was unfortunate

m. We could recognise the younger fishes by their higher springs; they seemed to be three to four feet long, and rose five to six feet above the surface of the sea. Their leaping looked like an attempt at flying, but their gills did not do them go

t; they have little oil,

and saw the peninsula of Jütland, with the town of Skaggen. The penin

out in the Skagerrak, the Cattegat, and the Sound for nearly a week. On some days we scarcely made fifteen to twenty leagues a day. On such calm days

ance of the Sound, the more imposing was the sight, and the more closely were the vessels crowded together. Fortunately we were favoured

onlight night; it seems almost as if the moon had borrowed a portion of the sun's lustre. I have seen splendid night

ere, and endeavouring simultaneously to gain the entrance to the Sound. I should now be able to

starting of the ship very incommodious. The sails have to be furled, the anchor cast, the boat lowered, and the captain proceeds on shore; hours sometimes elapse before he has finished. When he returns to the ship, the bo

a collision. She has to anchor in the Cattegat, and thus suffer two interruptions. If she arrives at Hels

ever, the toll may thus be paid in Copenhagen just as easily, the obligation to stop at Helsing?r is only a trick to gain the higher

emed so familiar, so beautiful and grand, as if I had seen nothing so beautiful in my whole life. My readers must bear in mind, however, where I came from, and how long I ha

M COPENHAGEN.

r Christiania, of 170 horsepower, bound for the town of Christiania, distant 304 sea-miles from Copenhagen. We had soon passed through the Sound and arrived safely in

e sea like a long promontory. Lighthouses are erected here, and on the other numerous dangerous spots of the coast, and their lights sh

st 2

of the Swedish coast and of the little fiord to the port of Gottenburg was of peculiar interest. The sea here was more like a broad stream which is bounded by noble rocks, and interspersed by small and large rocks and shoals, over which the wate

travellers into the town. There are also one-horse vehicles, and even an omnibus. The former were already engaged; the latter, we were told, drives so slowly, that nearly the whole time is lost on the road; so I and two travelling companions hired the captain's carriage. The r

uation of the suburbs is very peculiar. Rocks, or little fields and meadows, often lie between the houses; the rocks even now and then cros

hing is built of bricks. The river Ham flows through the large square, and increases the traffic by the many ships and barks running into it from the sea, and bringing p

s of the fir-trees, which had an agreeable odour, a more healthy one probably than any artificial perfume. I foun

hich extend sixty leagues, and form the Christian's Sound. By what I could see in the dim twilight, the scene was beautiful. Numerous islands, some merely consisting of bare rocks, others overgrown with slender pines, surrounded us on all sides. But our pilot understood his business perfectly, and steered us safely through to Sandesund, spite of the dark night. Here we anchored, for it would have been too d

ust

other; and when the ship appears to be hemmed in, a new opening is suddenly presented to the eye behind another island. The islands themselves are of a most varied character: some only consist of bare rocks, with now and then a pine; some are richly covered with fields and groves; and the shore presents so many fine scenes, that one hardly knows where to look in order not to miss any of the beauties of the scenery. Here are high mountains overgrown from the bottom to the summit with dark pine-groves; there again lovely hills,

tudded with islands. The little town itself is almost concealed behind the hills. A remarkable feature

autiful, being built amphi-theatrically on a hillock which leans against a high mountain. A fine

aced. There does not seem to be much work doing here, for I only saw one ship lying at anchor, and none on the stocks. About eight leagues

ons' lodge, &c., lie in a semicircle round the port, and are bounded by fields, meadows, woods, and hills, forming a delightful coup-d'oeil. It se

seven hours, and had stopped four times on the way; but the boats with new-comers, with merchandise and