Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North

d risen grander and more majestic from its ashes. [11] I took up my quarters with a cousin, who is married to the Wurtemburg consul, the merchant Schmidt, in

y large rooms, which are partly used for consultations, partly for the sale of refreshments. The most interesting thing of all is, however, to sit in the gallery, and looking downwards, to observe the continually increasing crowd passing and repassing each other in the immense hall and through the galleries

ons. I had resolved to count only the three-masted ships; but soon gave it up, for their number seemed overwhelming, even without re

boats busily employed in loading or unloading these vessels; these things, together with the shouting and singing of the sailors, the rattling of anchors which are bein

ced for seventy years: the Elbe and the Baltic lay for months in icy chains, and not a ship could traverse the frozen river, n

tain alleys and streets, serving as the domicile of innumerable families. I visited several of these places, and can assure the reader that I saw nothing extraordinary in them. Houses with two large wings, forming an alley of from eighty

. The noblest building, distinguished alike as regards luxury, skill, tastefulness of design, and stability, is the Bazaar. It is truly a gigantic undertaking, and the more to be admired from the fact that it is not built upon shares, but at the expense of a single individual, Herr Carl Sillem; the architect's name is Overdick. The building itself is constructed entirely of stone, and the wa

eight or ten feet high; a single sheet frequently costs 600 florins. This plate-glass luxury is not confined to shops, but extends to windows generally, not only in Hamburgh, but also in A

ly of mahogany; a wood which is here in such common use, that in some of the most elegant house

the number of shops and dwellings underground, to which one descends by a flight of six or eight stair

at slaughterhouse, in which all cattle

by a wooden door. A very broad, handsome street, or, more properly speaking, an elongated square, planted with a double row of large trees, is the mo

nese itself consists of cottages, grouped in a picturesque manner round the Sülberg, a hill from which the traveller enjoys a very extended view over the great plain,

Elbe at Blankenes

not more than half a mile from Altona, and inhabited only by fishermen and pilots.

; the brightest of brass handles adorn the street-doors; the wind

displaying at any rate more opulence than we are accustomed to find with t

oloured bodices, lightly fastened in front with silk cords or silver buckles. Their straw hats have a most comical appearance; the brim of the hat is turned up in such a manner tha

ler; but sometimes we part gladly, sometimes with regret. I need not write many pages to describe my feelings at the parting in

rning I left Altona, and p

overed in, and furnished with glass windows. In fact, they only differed from those of the

he whole neighbourhood presents only widely-extended plains, turf-bogs and moorlands, sandy places and heaths, interspersed

Eisholm a branch-line leads to Glückstadt, and another from Neum

eat feature of it. In the finest countries I have found the natives far less enthusiastic about what was really grand and beautiful, than they were here in praise of what was neither the one nor the other. My neighbour, a very agreeable lady, was untiring in laudation of her beautiful nat

as the appearance of a lake of middling size. The harbour is said to be good; but there were not many ships there. [13] Among thes

lations, Herr Brauer, waiting for me at the railway. I was immediately introduced

ation. My kind friends the Brauers accompanied me

things unknown here. The approach to the cabin was by a flight of stairs so steep, that great care was requisite to avoid descending in an expeditious but disagreeable manner, by a fall from top to bottom. In the f

ds lying to the south and the west. There was light enough to enable me to see, looming out of

il

ppeared, then disappeared, and then a new and more distant one rose out of the sea. Towards noon we reached the island of M?en, which lies about forty [14] miles distant from Copenhagen. It forms a beautiful group of rocks, rising boldly from the sea. They are white as chalk, and have a smooth and shi

urable. But it blew and rained so violently, that I was obliged to give up all thoughts of visiting the surrounding pa

s called the "Broad Street," and leads from the harbour through the greater part of the town. In addition to its breadt

f completed, and partly covered with moss and lichens. It was intended for a splendid church, and is built entirely of marble; but the soft grou

vel of the street. The approaches to the latter are not guarded by railings as in Hamburgh. The other side of the pavement is bounded by a little unostentatious rivulet, called by unpoetical people "canal," into which tributaries equally sweet pour from all the neighbouring houses. It is therefore necessary to take great care, lest you should fall into the traitorous depths on the one side, or stumble over the projecting steps on the other. The pavement itself is covered with a ro

ee-houses and inns, the academy of the fine arts, and the building belonging to the botanical garden, the two last commonly known by the name of "Charlottenburg," are amo

n the form of a cross. This square also is decorated by a monument standing in the midst, and representing Frederick V. In another fine square, the "Nytorf" (New Marke

in the year 1794, but has since been rebuilt with increased splendour. The chapel of this palace is very remarkable. The interior has the appearance rather of a concert-room than of a building devoted to purposes of worship. Tastefully decorated boxes, among which

eculiarly rich in specimens of the ornaments, weapons, mus

the grey horses which occupied them-descendants of the pure Arabian and wild Norwegian breeds-creatures with long manes and tai

hted from above. When I saw it, it was not completed; the walls were being painted in fresco by so

s being erected. There his ashes will rest, with his ex

covered with a mixture of sand and plaster. But whatever may be wanting in outward splendour is compensated by its contents, for this church contain

he building which contains them. May the fates be prosperous, an

emperor of Austria presented to it a good full-toned organ, and two o

terested in the ancient chair, used i

, and surmounted by nine peaks, from the centre of which protrudes a r

of Tycho de Brahe. Nearly all the upper part of the building is converted into a

the town. They are, in fact, so many markets; for the craft lying in the

f houses looking so exactly alike, that on a foggy night an accurate knowledge of the locality is requisite to know one from the other. It looks as though, on eac

is announced in the calendar, not a lamp is lighted. If the lady moon chooses to hide behind dark clouds, that is her

any of the loungers. The most beautiful place of all is the "Kastell," above the "Long Line," from whence one can enjoy a beautiful view. The town lies displayed below in all its magnificence: the harbour, with its many ships; the sparkling blue Sound, which spreads its broad expanse between

ance; at the first view they look like great houses with flag-staves, for every ship is provided with a roof, out of which the masts rise into the air; t

to be found all the delights that can combine to draw a citizen into the country. There are a tivoli, a railway, cabinets, and booths with wax-figures, and countless other sights, besides coffee-houses, beer-rooms, and music. The gardens are planted

enhagen, we pass many handsome vil

of the town, with the surrounding country and the sea; still I far prefer the prospect from the "Kastell." The Park contains a considerable island, which, du

ous stones, and is not high, but interesting from the circumstance to which it owes its origin. It was erected by his grateful subjects in memory of the lat

arriages and a number of private equipages attended. Nearly all these were empty, and the servants walked beside them. Among the mourners I did not notice a single woman; I supposed that this was only the case at the funerals of gentlemen, but on inquiry I found that the same rule is observed at the burial of women. This consideration for the weaker sex is carried so far, that on the day of the funeral no woman may be seen in the house of mourning. The mourners assemble in the house of the deceased, and partake of cold refreshments. At the conclusion of the ceremony they are again regaled. What particularly ple

ear a handkerchief, and over this a kind of shade, like a bonnet. On Sundays I saw many of them in small, pretty caps, worked with silk, with a border of lace of more than a hand's breadth, plaited very stiffly; at the back they have large bows of fine riband, the ends of which reach half down to their feet. I foun

ms, particularly those worn by the k

um, whither art thou carrying that boy?" To march, and to join in fatiguing manoeuvres, carrying such a drum, and beating it

and hospitality, and drew me into their circle, where I soon felt myself quite at ease. I shall never forget their friendship, and shall make use of every opportunity to shew them my appreciation of it. Herr Ed

ng thither. He is already beginning to retire, as the continual journeys are becoming irksome to him; but he still owns a number of great and small vessel

ew neither my fortitude nor my perseverance; he did not know whether I should be able to endure the hardships of a journey to the north, whether I would bear sea-sickness philosophically, or even if I had courage enough, in case of storms or bad weather, to abstain from annoying the captain by my fears or complaints at a time when he would only have too much to harass him. The ki

p is despatched, to carry the mails of the Danish government. This vessel leaves Copenhagen in October, remains in Iceland during th

harbours until the middle of August. She superintends the fishing vessels, which, attracted by

until the end of September, by means of the merchant-ships, whic

wind sprung up. Herr Knudson sent me word to be re

gently out of the harbour of Copenhagen. No parting from children, relations, or old-cherished friends embittered this h

lay spread the majestic town; before us the Sound, an immense natural basin, which I could almost compare to a great Swiss lake; on the right and left were the

s life, occupied with stellar observations and calculations. Now came a somewhat dangerous part, and one which called into action all the car

ng?r, and at the extremity of a projecting neck of land the fortress Kronburg, which demands a toll of every passing ship, and shews a large row of threateni

ow had hovered around us on all sides, bade us "farewell." Some bent their course towards the east, others towards the west; and we alone, on the broad desert ocean, set sail for t

rayer for its continuance. Then I descended to the cabin, where I found a convenient bunk (a kind of

hiller's interpretation, "the horrible of horrors,"-sea-sickness. At first I took little heed of this, thinking that sea-sickness would soon be overcome by a traveller like myself, who should be inured to every thing. But in vain did I bear up; I became worse and worse, till I was at length obliged to remain in my berth with but one consoling thought, namely, that we were to-day on the open sea, where there was nothing worthy of notice. But the following day the Norwegian coast was in sight, and at all hazards I must see it; so I crawled on deck more dead than alive, looked at a row of mountains of moderate elevation, their

the fifth day we passed so near the majestic rocky group of the Feroe Islands, that we

My limbs were bathed in a cold perspiration; I was as weak as an infant, and my mouth felt parched and dry. I saw that I must now either make a great effort or give up entirely; so I roused myself, and with the assistance of the cabin-boy gained a seat, and promised to take any and every remedy which should be recommended. They gave me hot-water gruel with wine and sugar; but it was not enough to be obliged to force this down, I was further compelled to swallow small pieces of raw ba

to the complaint, and when under its influence cannot summon resolution to take sustenance. I should advise all my fri

earied mind by a diligent study of the mode of lif

"I drink tea," the word "water" is always added: "I drink tea-water." Our "tea-water" was, if possible, worse than its predecessor, the incomparable coffee. Thus I was beaten at all points; the eatables were too strong for me, the drinkables too-too-I can find no appropriate epithet-probably too artificial. I consoled myself with the prospect of dinner; but, alas, too soon this sweet vision faded into thin air! On the sixth day I made my first appearance at the covered table, and could not help at once remarking the cloth which had been spread over it. At the commencement of our journey it might perhaps have been white; now it was most certainly no longer of that snowy hue. T

nk that perhaps my glass and my plate would be more delicately manipulated, or probab

ne. The second and concluding course consisted of a large piece of beef, with which I had no fault to find, except that it was too heavy for one in my weak state of health. At supper we had the same dishes as at dinne

tion, to drink the health of the friends we were leaving, and to hope for a quick and prosperous voyage; then, when the wind was favourable, its health was drunk, with the request that it would remain so; when it was contrary, with the request that it would change; when

ion of a glass of brandy; for dinner they had pease, beans, barley, or potatoes, wi

inually upon deck. I could not sufficiently admire the coolness, or rather the cheerfulness and alacrity with which they fulfilled their onerous duties. And what reward have they? Scanty pay, for food the diet I have just described, and

ind. That the Danish sailors are contented, I had many opportunities of obser

ion, it is high time that I shou

ave [22] broke completely over our ship. Twice we attempted to approach the Westmann Islands [23] (a group belonging to Iceland) to watch an opportunity of casting anchor, and setting ashore our fellow-travelle

raphical miles; for a sailing vessel, which must tack now and then, and must go as much with the wind as possible, 1500 to 1600 miles. Had the strong wind, which was at first so favourable, instead of

rubs, and even what appeared to be groups of stunted trees. As we came nearer, however, I was enabled to distinguish objects more clearly, and the green hills became human dwellings with small doors and windows, while th

was not till next morning that the hour

shores of Iceland, the longed-for, and bask as it were in the wonders of thi

*

ervations regarding this island. They are drawn from Mackenzie's Description o

Feroe Isles. It was not till the year 874 that the island was peopled by a number of voluntary emigrants, who, feeling unhappy under the dominion of Harold Harfraga (fine hair), arriv

eligion, customs, and historical monuments, the Norwegians introduced a kind of feudal system, which, about the year 928, gave place to a somewhat aristocratic

e shores of the Lake Thingvalla. The people possessed an excellent code o

f Iceland. Education, literature, and even refined poetry flourished among the inhabitants, who to

and loaded with presents. The Edda, by S?mund, is one of the most valued poems of the ancient days of Iceland. The second portion of the Edda, called Skalda, dates from a later period, and is ascribed by many to

of 800 armed men. He was a great historian and poet, and possessed an accurate knowledge of the Gr

y, under Isleif, first Bishop of Iceland; four other schools and several convents

er and thicker than we find them at present. The population of Iceland was also much more numerous than it is now, although there were neit

clothing was woven from the wool of their sheep. Commerce with n

re built, and tithes established for the maintenance of the clergy. Isleif, first Bishop of Skalholt, was ordained in the year 105

part of America are said to ha

Norway, and then to Denmark, peace and security took the place of the internal commotions with which, before this time, Iceland had been frequently disturbed; but this state of quiet brought forth indolence and apathy. The voyages of discovery were interfer

out upon the island, and carried

t Hoolum, about the year 1530, under the s

s not brought about without disturbance. I

lish nations took part in these enormities. The most melancholy occurrence of this kind took place in 1627, in which year a great number of Algeri

om the smallpox; of which disease more than 16,000 of the inh

ormed lakes. For more than a year a thick cloud of smoke and volcanic ashes covered the whole of Iceland, and nearly darkened the sunlight. Horned cattle, sheep, and horses were destroyed; famine cam

and its extreme length from north to south 140 miles. The number of inhabitants is e