Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car

orestieri-still retain most of their characteristics of historic times. The Campagna is still the Campagna; the Alban Hills are still classic ground, and

ong in contrast from every aspect, modernity nudging and crowding antiquity. Rome

bano, and, on the east, these outposts were further encircled by a girdle of vi

one; nor yet its great churches and palaces, and above all not the view of

centres of Europe. Said Chateaubriand: "It possesses a silence and solitude so vast that even the echoes o

n of the country of Tyre and Babylon and you will have a picture of th

-day. Long horned cattle and crows are the chief living

over its famous Appian Way. The Appian Way is still there, loose ended fragments joined up here and there with a modern roadway which has become its successor, and there is a very appreciable traffic, such as it is, on the main lines of roadway north and south; but east and west and r

La Magliana, the hunting lodge of the Renaissance Popes. The evolution of the name of this country house comes from

to a height of four hundred and sixty odd metres just beyond Albano, when it descends and then rises again to Velletri ultimately to flatten out and continue along practically at sea-level all the way to Cassino

transformed into a convent, was a sort of summer habitation of the Popes. The status of the little city of two thousand souls is peculiar. It enjoys extra-territorial rights which were granted to the papal powers by the new order

ano's fortifications rank as the most perfect examples of their class in all Italy. They tell a story of many epochs; they are all massive, and are la

as it came. Concerning its origin the following local legend is here related: "Where the lake now lies there stood once a great city. Here, when Jesus Christ came to Italy, he beg

the time of the foundation of Rome, and possessed so many attractions, that it became a question whether Rome itself should not be abandone

f Rome, built by Ascanius, the son of ?neas, who named it after the

occa di Papa, (the city itself being the one-time residence of the Anti-pope John) was built by Cardina

af cone is crowned with an old castle of the Colonnas which remained the

way parallels that of Claudius Appius, was Rome's patrician suburb, and to-day is th

laces and villas. It was ever the custom among the princely Italian families-the Farnese, the Borghese, and the

Roman pleasure house of the ninth century, and followed after as a natural course of events, the chie

afterwards the property of Lucien Bonaparte and the scene of one of Washington Irving's little known sketches, "The Adventure of an Artist." The Villa Falconieri at Frascati, built by the Cardinal Ruffini in the sixteenth century, formerly belonged to a long line of Counts and Cardinals, but the hand of the German, which is grasping everything in sight, in all qua

cently grand, few are superlatively excellent according to the highest ?sthetic standards, but all are of the satisfying, gratifying quality that

ries for automobile tourists which cross Italy in every direction. More than this, Tusculum has the ruins of an ancient castle, one day belonging to a race of fire-eating, quarrelsome counts who leagued themselves with any one who had a cause, just or unjust, for which to fight. Fighting was their t

Porta San Lorenzo, having made a round of perhaps a hundred and fifty kilometres of as varied a stretch of Italian roadway as could possibly be found. The gamut of scenic and architectural joys runs a

ily, which gave so many popes to Rome, and an inspiration and a divinity to Michelangelo, was a village near Palestrina. It had a Corinthian column rising in its piazza and from it the C

asures of masterpieces left by him are scattered all o

h o was bound to be unhappy. He had in mind one or two sad romances of Subiaco, though for all that one can hardly see what the letters of its name

bi

t years. In feudal times the town could hardly have been more primitive than now, in fact the only thing that ever woke it

o-day, but its capture has been made easier with the march of progress. Down from the

spots round about. Nero built up and he burned down and he fiddled all the while. He was decidedly a capricious character. History or legend says that Nero's cup of cheer was struck from his han

t it is better, far better, than the same class of inn in England and America, and above all its cooking is better. A fowl and a salad and a bott

s. Some day of course this charm will be gone, but it is still lingering on and, if you do not put on too great a pretense, you will get the same good cheer at five francs a day at "The Partridge

via Tivoli is seventy ki

s of Frascati and Tivoli. Tivoli was the summer resort of the old Romans. Mecenate, Horace, Ca

d'Este

to-O piove, o tira v

nd set the fashion of the place as a country residence. Things prospered beyond expectations, it would

f is an enormous pile, on one side being three stories higher than on the other. It is a terrace house in every sense of the word. Statuary, originally dug up from Hadrian's villa, once embellished the house and grounds to a greater extent than no

inconceivable by any other who lived at his time. All its great extent of buildings have suffered the stress of time, and some even have entirely disappeared, as a considerable part of the later monuments of Tivoli were built up from their stones. Many of its a

etchings and drawings of Roman monuments have delighted an admiring world, died as a result of overwork in conn