Boys' Book of Model Boats

ethod is commonly known as the "bread-and-butter" system. The hull is built up of planks laid on top one of another with marine glue spre

or easy task, especially for beginners. Of course, after several hulls have b

" is meant its shape. Marine architects employ a regular method in drawing boat-hulls. Fig. 7 shows the side of a boat and half of the deck plan. It will be seen that this drawing does not tell much about the real shape of the boat, and if a hull were to be produced according to the shape given, the builder would have to use

ld have to be duplicated by another line to show the true shape. The cross-section of the boat at section 0 is shown in Fig. 9. One half of the drawing in Fig. 8 represents the forward half of the hull, and the other half represents the stern half of the hull. If the shape of the boat at section 10 is

nes of the hull at the various sections, it wo

which the vessel sinks to when only partially loaded or when carrying no load aside from its regular necessary equipment. The keel

t boats, and if the young boat-builder understands how to read boat dr

producing a boat-hull similar to the lines shown in F

in handling. Let us assume that the boat-hull is to measure 22 inches in length, with a depth of 4 inches. The beam, which is the width of the boat at

nt. Next cut out along the pencil line with a pair of shears. Now lay the paper outline on a plank and mark out the pa

-engine. After the lines are marked out, make a hole with a 3/4-inch bit, as shown in Fig. 12. Insert the point of the keyhole saw in one of these holes to start it and cut out the piece. Treat the second board in the same way. The third board

The boards are then placed in a vise or clamp and allowed to remain there over night. In applying the glue, the builder s

ed together the crude hull wil

nd 8 are all 1 inch apart. Section 9 is 1 inch from 10 and 10 is 1 inch from the stern. Lines should be drawn across the deck to correspond with these sections, which can be measured off with a ruler. It will now be necessary to cut some templates, or forms, from cardboard to guide the builder in bringi

so start to use his templates or forms, applying them sectionally to determine how much more wood he will have to remove to bring the hull to shape. For instance, when he is working in the vicinity of sections 5, 6, and 7 he will apply these forms at the proper points occasionally to determine when enough wood has bee

sandpaper. The coarse file is used to take the rough marks of the spoke-shave away, and the marks left by the file are in turn removed by the sandpape

couple of good sharp chisels and a gouge the work will not be so difficult as at first appears. The use of an auger and bit will greatly aid in the work. After the outside of the hull is brought to shape the wooden form is drilled with holes, as shown in Fig. 15. This will make it much easier to chip the wood away. After the major portion of the wood has been taken ou

not affected by moisture and it is therefore not so liable to

s are fastened to it, as shown in Fig. 18. The screws used should be brass, since iron screws will rust and cause trouble. Three screws should be used for each side board, and they should be driven into the bow piece so that the screws on one side will not interfere with those on the other. The first cross-piece is then screwed in place, as shown in Fig. 19. The second and third cross-pieces are then screwed in place and the back or stern piece attached.

However, it is not a good type to use for all kinds of boats. It makes a splendid little pleasure

metal. This is a very difficult task even for the thoroughly experienced me