Glories of Spain

ex-Clairvoyantes and lion-tamers-Clown's despair-Deserted streets-Vision of the night-Haunted staircase-Dark and dangerous-A small grievance-The reeds by the river-Cry of the watchmen-Hare and ho

es-A false prophet-Magic picture-

an of locality as well as the gift of rhyme, and we often had to summon him from some distant chamber to the rescue; vainly remarking that it was a little hard all the talents should have fallen to his share. He

neroid indicated rain. Where we came to openings in the streets, the sky above was lighted with a lur

t that time may mellow but hardly destroy them. To-night they were not quite impenetrable; a little of the glare from the sky or the fair-the latter unseen but near at hand-seemed to faintly light their o

ES: G

her and thither by the wind. We traced them far as the eye could reach. The houses, with their quaint outlines and iron balconies shadowed by the waving trees, stood o

NA FROM THE

burst forth and lighted up their grim faces. They were roasting chestnuts, and as each batch was finished it was carried up to the fair to be quickly devoured by the boys and girls to-night supreme. Every dog has its day, and it was their turn to reign. They must make the most of it. To-morrow the

ons-and at very high tides come in at the ground-floor windows, a visitor more free than welcome. The occurrence is rare, but has been known. We could just

o do was to walk up and down in an endless stream, eat chestnuts and blow penny trumpets. To-night, at any rate, the s

made to excite an unresponsive crowd. It was the usual thing. The learned pig, the two-headed lady, the gentleman who drew portraits with his feet, the clairvoyante who told fortunes and promised wealth and marriage, the lion-tamer who put his head into the lion's mouth, the enchanting ballet, where ladie

illusions was over. This was not what we had expected of Gerona the b

en country. Tall trees, sombre and mysterious, waved and rustled behind us. Evidently this was one of the public parks or promenades that exist just outside so many Spanish towns, refuges f

th it, in front of us to the right, we traced the marvellous outlines of the town. Above all, crowning the heights, stretching heavenwards like mighty monsters, uprose the towers of the cathedral and other churches. Almost unearthly was the scene

occasions and seldom fails as it failed in the midnight streets of Toledo. But a conjuror woul

told us which way to steer, what to avoid. We passed well on the outskirts of the gaping crowd and found ourselves on the bridge: the dark

THE O?A

struck ten. This served to change the current of one's th

ions instead of one. I always like to see an important building first at

gain to the hotel? We had no desire to repeat that Toledo adventure. T

mb the height to reach the cathedral. Let us play Hare and Hounds. I will drop pi

lken thread be

Fair Rosamund at the end of it. Here we can only

ever disappoint or play you false. And,

ies flit from flower to flower, until by-and-by they alight on a nettle and it stings: a lit

int octagonal corner; in front of us a narrow turning; a lo

ise," said H. C.

ith all those broken vow

: a rugged climb with dead walls about us; twistings and turnings

s to him who climbs. I like to vary our

ly full of purpose. We took it without doubting and soon found ourselves in the open

some of their finest effects are lost by this tyrannical custom. But we knocked in vain; ghostly echoes answered us. Ghosts pass through doors; we never heard that the most accommodating ghost ever opened them to mortals. It was th

r, the great stretch of country and far-off Pyrenees we knew must be there. All this must wait for the morning. Nor should we have to wait long, for night and the mome

own. One proclaimed the time and weather and another took up the tale; sometimes a disco

ORWAY, CATHE

eird. Heavy footsteps echoed right and left through the narrow streets, in fitting accompaniment to his monotonous chant. We had long grown familiar with these old watchmen, who come laden with an atmosphere of the past. They are

ince we had risen in the darkness of the Narbonne misty morning, H. C. had been reawakened with a sort of volcanic eruption, and madame, w

nd Hounds, H. C

! I forgot all about it

scent ha

for a moment. Then he

ead and Fair Rosamund, set me thinking what a romantic adventure it would be

hotel as we can. Suppose we vary the route. These steps l

out of sight. We had returned to earth, and not far off the old watchman was still awaking shadows and echoes in the narrow s

r pans and baskets, but left them empty. From the bed of the river the dancing demons had departed, and the smoke of their incense still ascended from dying embers. Next came

n close converse and we wondered if they were hatching mischief; then they threw their light upon us and no

us crowd that had passed up and down in the centuries gone by; fair dames in rustling silks and gay cavaliers with clanking swords; all the grandeur an

doublet. The love-look in her eyes was only equalled by the fervour and constancy of his. Yet sadness predominated, for it was a farewell interview. She was the last daughter

small miniature of his beautiful betrothed. Both were buried with him. She soon faded and declined, and found him again in a Land where wars

and the ghosts. We lighted candles and H. C. led the way through the labyrinth to our rooms. Windows were open and the two

our hours and guard the city.

ter all. So they separated with easy conscience, and from opposit

back? Where had the moments flown? One grows absorbed in these night visions, dark shadows and outlines, and time passes unconsciously. We counted the strokes, listened to the vibrations, and then H. C. went off to his own regions. The watchmen were all very well in their w

Heavy rain had fallen during the night, lowering clouds for

evertheless Spain essentially needs sunshine to bring out all its colouring and brillian

l of wet weather. Generally it comes in September. This year i

h its hidden wonders-delighted to air his French and give us Spanish lessons. "We have a weather-wise prophet who never

confirm the tale. All the same we would not lose hope, which has brought many a sinking ship int

every step and turning; but we must record one experience before concluding. Let us close our eyes, ta

roofs. To our right are the old walls with their gateways, round bastions and irregular outlines. Near to us is a church-tower, g

ry. We can even see the reeds and rushes that border its banks, but cannot h

lovelier than their outlines. Some are snow-capped and stand out pure and white against the

to knock this morning. The great w

ch we stand: a single span seventy-three feet broad. No other church in Christendom can boast of such a nave. Light comes in from windows high up, filled in with rich stained glass. The tone of the walls and pillars is perfect, never having been touched with brush or knife; a rich subdued claret delighting the senses. Those great

rch more closely, we pass through a great doorway

The simple round arches rest on coupled pillars of marble, slender and graceful. The capitals are extremely rich, elaborate and delicate in their carving. Here Romanesque art seems to have been introduced into Spain through Fra

pear almost as necessary to us as light and air. In the centre was an ancient well, without which no cloister seems pe

an those we had just visited. Near it was a smaller, equally ancient church, now desecrated and turned into a carpenter's shop. We will pay it a visit by-and-by and make acquaintance with its sturdy owner, who passes his days and does his work under the very shad

en turning back through the cloisters again found ourselves lost in visions of the past as we fell once