Faces and Places

nglish abroad this m

unless they had pas

r them to present th

h a very modest moun

of the Alps, is hig

ain of mist that lies

d its many small tow

tance as if they had

d to lie at some unc

unless they have who

they are there, fo

n with intent

more especially the ho

taking. Nobody in recen

ht on San Salvatore, a

ved enjoyable, no one

mpty beds at Lugano.

possible dangers and

no bed; assuredly it

d be nothing to eat,

re was madness charac

s the mid March

s not nearly so mad as

revious day and surve

s high rank in the Ro

rs ago a chapel was bu

. These take place at

s with devout sons and

s breaks the silence

drink and sleep, and s

p at its feet, in a sh

e in the sense that he

district, and jambon

"Yorck." A spare bedro

of the officiating pri

this apartment that I

at Lugano held to be

sit to the top of Sa

, I found an old gent

by which the pilgri

el--a probably unde

it brings directly

chasing "vins du p

, and jamb

subject of the night

le taken aback, and

inconveniences of

e he thought of it,

ntly learned, the h

anhood, and the dre

develop into a grand

of waiters bustling

m. It was a very sma

d propose to lodge w

ing, and everything

the clouds on the ot

and look at it now

its table d'h?te at

sed at their w

ught it might be don

s pos

hotel of the future

, and proposed that

oom we found suffici

of the two windows

s of the bed, it is t

as not free from sus

a gorgeous counterpa

the envy of Joseph'

o lead them in this

reat patches of damp

he bed hung a peacef

to his breast, and

ty with a sheep that

p one of the legs of

But nothing could

which it regarded th

oo

out the bed, and t

d. On this point al

airy confidence. Wha

f York, and eggs, t

on in dive

ted, engendered a feel

ier tasted the sausa

class hotel as garnis

of pieces of gristle,

enshrines it, crumbl

rly out of the questio

its own country, acqu

s are very well in the

n eggs

ll of resources. Why

rom Lugano? He would u

. This was a happy tho

to arrive on the follo

the shape of a sup

of spending a night on

The mountain is not hi

sy ascent of two hou

y morning and solemn

f Lugano, its full le

t, is the long arm that

where the mountains s

o the west, beyond a

ie on the plain, we s

nestling upon it, and

rs of Lago Maggiore. A

n the left glint the sn

e the red tiles and whi

ks of Monte Camoghe, f

the blue sky, but whic

The sun sets behind

Matterhorn and gleam

te

k of a picture which co

eauty of a land where

se October days roses

every breath of air.

g sun rising over the

as we toiled up the

the sun had capricio

clouds, and the lake

reen with chagrin. Th

ere was a prospect of

circumstances to whi

would lend a

ting on arriving to fin

eared. I have reason to

had been too much fo

retire to rest in the

the town. He had sel

able of his sons, a m

son had the family at

onfidence. The enthusi

in the breast of his

e was ready to go anyw

minary arranged a nap

le disturbing imaginar

as he had seen the wait

el down in

he cutlets? Si, and b

ave them done? Thus, o

whilst their recital

uage, filled me with

omme

told me in one of hi

e it is, though for b

to particularise him

n a position to dec

king suggested by G.,

h

could not make a dinne

to like? Sausage, ham

d as omelettes. No? Th

potage au riz was

es poured at our feet

ur to dinner, we asce

the hill on which the

ers by the highway of

n. There was no light

stone basin by the do

ip--the gaudy toyshop

, with their pictures

box, now thick with

nsel of confessor. It

insel adornments bein

innest. But in some p

d upon it an altarcl

The colours had fade

the cloth had been g

ich genuine piece of

rbearing hankering a

ns

ng, whilst reposing

of chopped straw, I w

for mass. I thought i

st, who had come up t

rcely more luminous m

disturbed soul. But,

s that pulled the be

by himself in this lo

g over a sl

later sitting on the

ed the mysteries of h

s as he leaned forward

ich he vigorously puf

an, by no means undu

ly mass in the lonely

ck of the hill, and h

f business, and in p

with one of his pari

whilst yet they wer

d scraped together su

said on San Salvatore

and. So once a week, w

s way up through the m

and thereafter comf

ated on the dresse

and I confess I have r

t the sou

brought in in a neat

who still insisted up

Everything was in or

failure may have been

a dozen soups, and I

not make. The liquid

something which in re

butter. The rice, wh

ted itself in conglome

he tureen, had squeeze

a

was not in the humour t

to make the ba

entifully to the conte

than to settle the dis

elight at things havin

vaded the place, nervo

rantically flicking of

urred to him that it

Whereupon we emptied

eturned were discover

ople who had

e the cutlets, and G

f their excellence whe

ty cuts into which v

cher's shops on the C

y looked a little bur

the same attraction o

salt. There were large

ly free from savouring

the salt lay in drifts

very hungry and ate t

made up the dinner. T

, amid much of the com

I explained to G. in

away the floating mas

years been able to e

that date, choked by

er touched them, espe

eal of

or which Earl Granvil

cription. You might

partial to bent chee

part of the feast, ow

-looking cur, attract

e seemed to like the c

fee, was more than e

the good things

!" he said, breaking

knowingl

the profoundest dept

omical

the coffee the real p

ly the whole of one s

ess of the proportions

use. There were no "do

ntaneity of a fire. Th

ontributed an enormou

x inches above the lev

was placed; and the m

l crackling laughter

a fragrant perfume.

led high up on the wa

ere we had so l

e on the oil painting

here was a picture (

th arrows, and in hi

ul face. There was t

ladder, each rung of

There was a crucifi

pass for a family por

iod, nursing a spanie

t made grave ravages

cheek and the who

off his mind, and h

tering in the back p

t the shadows in the

versation. It was now

to be built up here,

zing round, the old m

he (G.) exercising hi

aking of soup, the f

ic cheeses. He showed,

hich was written "Leo

His Royal Highness c

mule, and escorted

take of any

nkly admits, lost his

ssion which confirms t

occasion, it has been

man should assume the

age au riz on such bri

ut the fatuous old gen

n and Ireland to desce

r of the comestibles w

portions of which mo

s d

there were indicat

ting chamber that G. w

ved when it was usual

n the top of a mounta

d we affected to dis

yawns increased in int

'clock G. pointedly c

een his wat

a bright wood fire

rresistible. He liter

rcase, and into the b

tside of the door the

ounds. On the inside t

entre of the door. Fro

ul rather for ventila

would not enter. Look

gainst possible intrus

scovered the trunk of

next discovery was r

r, which suggested the

is across the door on

eight o'clock

d to call us at sunri

our ill luck of the

mist obscured all a

sation and Lugano the

ite mist, and showed

d in glori