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Things To Make

Chapter 9 CABINET-MAKING.

Word Count: 2527    |    Released on: 30/11/2017

h-box

mps, pens, seeds, needles, and a number of other minor things

the larger Bryant and May matches. Select only tho

r drawer with truly square corners is useful for assembling them in; if they are packed i

ainst a piece of thin card. When the glue is dry, apply some more with a small brush to the back angle

FIG. 27.-Matc

ide the end a piece of white paper, whereon words and numbers will be more plainly visible

t appearance you should cover it outside with paper of some neutral tint; and if you wish it to be stable an

board

bels, etc. The only materials needed are some cardboard and glue; the tools, a ruler and a very sharp knife. For the mar

s easier to make the case fi

g which the cardboard is bent up. The sides are of exactly the same length as the bottom, but the front and back are longer than the

awer of cardboard cabinet

y, cut them almost through along the dotted lines. Use several strokes, and after each stroke test the stubbornness of the bend. When the card is almost severed it will bend up quite easily. Note.-Ben

f a small square-cornered wooden box be used as a support inside at each angle in turn. It is advisable to glue strips alo

ly wider than the rest, use it to guide y

he sides should be a quarter of an inch deeper than the drawers

made for the shelves, and also for a twentieth of an inch or so of "play" to each

strips. When the glue has set, place the guide drawer in position, and lay on it a piece of thin card to cover it over. This card is merely a removable "spacer." Along the side and back edges of the shel

n mark off and cut away any superfluous card. Glue the top edges, and stand the cabinet head downwards on

e, and paste strips in the angles under the shelve

ers for a wedge of card to be slipped through them and stuck in position. The a

r-box

chinery, are all-at any rate all those devoted to a particular "brand"-of the same dimensions; they are neatly constructed, and their woo

ood. Then plane down the tops of the two sides till they are flush with the back and front, and glue into the corners small pieces of wood of right-angled-triangle section to hold the sides together and the bottom to the sides. To secure the parts

h the better, as the wood will match the boxes. In def

. 29.-Cabinet with

ays or flatways is for the maker to decide.) The length of a side is calculated on the basis that the drawers will be separated from one another by runners 1/4 to 5/16 inch deep, and that a slight clearance mu

ss than the depth of a drawer. To fill up the spaces between the drawers in front you will need some slips of the same depth

of the bottom, as the case may be, and fix it lightly in position with a couple of tacks. The first runner is laid touching the spacer and a little back from the edge to give room for the cross-bar, and fastened by means of short tacks, for which holes had better be drilled in the runner to prevent splitting. The spacer is now trans

bars between drawers are cut out

somewhat stouter wood. If the bottom is cut a bit longer than the width of the ca

op and bottom drawers in position, and insert a piece of thin card between one end of

d be quite rectangular and make a close fit, as it plays the important part of keeping the case square laterally. Bevel

w be cut to a good fit a

etes the c

wire with the ends turned up. The handles are held up to the drawer

's taste. Varnishing, or polishing with warmed beeswax

drawer cabinet ought not

l Cab

The over-all dimensions of the cabinet represented are as follows: Height, including plinth, 25 inches; width, 17-3/8 inches; depth, 10-1/2 inches. The drawers a

et (a), details of drawer joints (b

ttoms of (barely) 1/4-inch wood. The grooves should not come nearer than 1/8-inch to the bottom edge, or be more than 5/16 inch wide and deep. The poss

the bottom to be introduced. The ends or the bottom are bevelled off toward

ning perfect squareness, without which the drawers will fit badly, it is advisable to mark out on a board a rectangle having the exact inside dimensions o

s of a compartment to be more easily seen. Where two-direction division is needed the partitions are cut as shown in Fig. 31. All partitions should touch

table brass knobs at any ironmonger's. Take care that the knobs are in line w

Divisions of drawer notc

30 a, to engage a catch projecting from one of the drawers. A special form of lock is sold for the purpose. If the single flap seems to give a lop-sided effect, place a fellow on the other side, and fit it with sunk bolts to sho

rawer (except the lowest) be made to overhang the bottom by the depth of the runner. T

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1 Chapter 1 A SAWING TRESTLE2 Chapter 2 A JOINER'S BENCH.3 Chapter 3 A HANDY BOOKSTAND.4 Chapter 4 A HOUSE LADDER.5 Chapter 5 A DEVELOPING SINK.6 Chapter 6 A POULTRY HOUSE AND RUN.7 Chapter 7 A SHED FOR YOUR BICYCLE.8 Chapter 8 A TARGET APPARATUS FOR RIFLE SHOOTING.9 Chapter 9 CABINET-MAKING.10 Chapter 10 TELEGRAPHIC APPARATUS.11 Chapter 11 A RECIPROCATING ELECTRIC MOTOR.12 Chapter 12 AN ELECTRIC ALARM CLOCK.13 Chapter 13 A MODEL ELECTRIC RAILWAY.14 Chapter 14 A SIMPLE RECIPROCATING ENGINE.15 Chapter 15 A HORIZONTAL SLIDE-VALVE ENGINE.16 Chapter 16 MODEL STEAM TURBINES.17 Chapter 17 STEAM TOPS.18 Chapter 18 MODEL BOILERS.19 Chapter 19 QUICK BOILING KETTLES.20 Chapter 20 A HOT-AIR ENGINE.21 Chapter 21 A WATER MOTOR.22 Chapter 22 MODEL PUMPS.23 Chapter 23 KITES.24 Chapter 24 PAPER GLIDERS.25 Chapter 25 A SELF-LAUNCHING MODEL AEROPLANE.26 Chapter 26 APPARATUS FOR SIMPLE SCIENTIFIC EXPERIMENTS.27 Chapter 27 A RAIN-GAUGE.28 Chapter 28 WIND VANES WITH DIALS.29 Chapter 29 A STRENGTH-TESTING MACHINE.30 Chapter 30 LUNG-TESTING APPARATUS.31 Chapter 31 HOME-MADE HARMONOGRAPHS.32 Chapter 32 A SELF-SUPPLYING MATCHBOX.33 Chapter 33 A WOODEN WORKBOX.34 Chapter 34 WRESTLING PUPPETS.35 Chapter 35 DOUBLE BELLOWS.36 Chapter 36 A HOME-MADE PANTOGRAPH.37 Chapter 37 A SILHOUETTE DRAWING MACHINE.38 Chapter 38 A SIGNALLING LAMP.39 Chapter 39 A MINIATURE GASWORKS.