Things To Make

es. The hall-way, which in many cases has to serve as stable, is sadly obstructed by the handles o

cation with the road, the question of constructing a really durable and practical cycle shed is well worth consideration. I say constructing, because, in the first place, a bought shed costing the same

FIG. 16.-Cycle

being an important feature of "tenants' fixtures"-and enables fullest advantage to be taken of the storage room. As will be seen from the scale drawings illustrating this chapter, the doors extend right across the front, and

16.-Plan of corner j

regards design and dimensions, to one in a back issue of Cycling. By the courtesy of the

By Mr. Hube

igh at the back, 3 feet deep over all, under the roof, which projects 3 inches fore and aft, and 2 inches at e

e corners. Fig. 16 makes it plain that the frames of the back and front overlap the frames of the sides, to which they

project the thickness of the door boards beyond the frame longitudinals; and to bring the front uprights of the sides up agains

withstand our variable and treacherous climate for a good number of years, should, as regards those parts directly exposed to the weather, be of good quality. Yellow d

match boarding: (a) square join

of the forms shown in Fig. 17, and measuring 4 inches (actual) acr

wood merchant have the specifications, so that he may provide the material in the most economical le

(actual) yellow match boarding f

= 25 sq. feet. = 75 feet run. 3 by 1-1/2 inch battens = 88 feet run. 4 by 1-1/2 inch battens = 26 feet run. 3

l also be

inch bolt

-inch cross-

oor b

k (a go

s of roof

lons of

bs. wir

-inch and I-1

materials will come

TRUC

ecified, they may be followed implicitly. It is, of course, easy to modify the design to suit any slig

FIG. 18.-Side

e verticals, which should be 5 feet 6 inches and 5 feet 1 inch long before trimming, on the floor, at right angles to the bottom of the frame (2 feet 7-3/4 inches long) and quite parallel to one another. (We will assume the half-joints to have been made at the bottom.) The batten for the top is laid across the ends of the verticals, its top edge in line w

oards at top of side, fix

first made as tem

so that their back faces shall be f

ews, and plane off the proje

board with 1-1/2 inches projecting beyond the frame. Leave a little spare at each end of every board, and when the side is covered run a tenon-saw across bo

FIG. 20.-Back

be allowed for along the top, and that the height of the frame at the front must be that o

ck. Cut the tongue neatly off that last fixed,

see Fig. 16. The 3-inch faces of the top and bottom bars are vertical. The

: FIG. 21. De

nstruct, as the braces which prevent the front edges dropping

ges accordingly. Next mark on the batten the ends of the braces. These project half an inch into the ledges, and terminate on the thrust side in a nose an inch long, square to the edge of the brace. The obtuse angle is flush with the edge of the ledge. Cut out the braces, lay them in position on the ledges, and scratch round the ends. Chisel out

: FIG. 22.-Do

the end of the ledge. Nail the boards on specially

e long ends of these are held by screws driven through the boards into the bearers; the cross pieces are screwed

HE PARTS

positions of the bolts will be gathered from the drawings. Get the parts quite square before drilling, and run the holes through as par

e head to revolve, for in such a case it would be impossible to screw up the nut.

: Fig. 23 Roo

rmly, by driving nails into the sides, etc., below it, in the position which it will occupy when the roof is on, except that it projects upwards a little. Cut off twenty-five boards 3 feet 7 inches long. Omitting the end ones for the present, lay the remainder up to one another in order, their ends an equal distance from the frame, and nail to the frame. Lift off the

ustr

Top of cy

-Floor o

the need for notching the end boards to allow the floor to touch the sides and back, and th

s dressed with stoprot or creosote, rub

er and nailed to the underside of the roof. The strips must overlap an inch or two. When the

now fitted, and a couple of hooks screwed into the door frame clear of

ound, on bricks or other suitable supports. Don't stand it close to

DOWN E

height of the shed by 1 foot. A very cheap shed, but of course not comparable in quality with the one descr