Ismailia

n 1st inst. Every third or fourth day another division followed the advance, until on the 11th I brought up the rear, and com

ir voyage towards Gondokoro. The horses were shipped and the stables had been pulled down, and the wood cut up for fuel. The long rows of white tents had vanished, and little rema

exactly the same size, about 16 ft. x 5 ft.; thus we had a total of se

ions, had appointed him chief of the country in place of the pretender Jangy. The governor of Fashoda had been condemned to disgrace. I left a handsome presen

oke up the station of Tewfikeeyah. This unfortunate gentleman was a great loss to the expedition, as he wa

y there was a general feeling of disappointment among the Egyptian troops (including officers) that the expedition was once again in full sail towards the south. Their hearts were either at Khartoum, or sighing for the flesh-pots of Egypt. I had lost many men from sickness during our sojourn at Tewfikeeyah, and the men were disheartened and depressed. This fe

our crossing the shallows during the flood; it was, therefore, necessary to push on with all spee

s exceedingly high, although it has already fallen about five inches from its maximum. Mr. Higginbotham has been ill for a long time. Lieutenant-Colonel Abd-el-Kader, my first aide-de-camp, although an excellent officer, is almost useless from ill-health; thus the whole w

by two noggurs (vessels) in distress. Stopped the steamer immediately, and then hea

he reis (captain) is, that she sprang a plank at about 4 A.M., six days ago, while under sail with a light wind, and she filled and sank immediately, the men having barely time to save themselves. Unfortunately, she had on board, in additi

suddenly awakened from sleep, were seized with panic, and only thought of saving themselves; thus the noggur lies in three-fathom water, and the invaluable section of a lifeboat is lost. The worry and disappointment, together with the loss of property, occasioned by these people, is beyond all description. Every man detests the expedition. The boats are nearly all

A.M., in company with the two noggurs, with a brisk north wi

Fahrenheit, at 6 A.M., 67 degrees; noon, 85 degr

ile looking for wood, a soldier found a dead elephant with tusks that weighed about 120 lbs. I gave him a present

n rises. It sinks together with the setting sun. Although the country is all that we could wish, there is no g

lso the new noggur that passed us yesterday morning; thus there must be gross negligence on the part of the twenty-o

the afternoon the two diahbeeahs of the Englishmen came up, and gave us the terrible news that one of the vessels had sunk near th

pany with the lost noggur. To work in this country is simply heart-breaking; the material is utterly worthless, boats, officers, and men are all alike. The loss of inv

lked from within, thus occasioning sudden and dangerous leaks; but in such

l to Suleiman Effendi at the sudd, with orders to

Bey came on board and confirmed the bad news. They describe the sunken vessel as lying with her stem about a foot below the surface, but her stern is in very deep wa

e met Colonel Tayib Agha and twelve vessels. I ordered three of these vessels to

he wreck above water, almost opposite the Sobat junction, on the west side of the river. Having passed the wreck we reached our old station Tewfikeeyah at 7.30 P.M. Here we found a nu

sent Abdullah with orders to the king, Quat Kare, to collect all hi

ssession of our old station, and hav

n, 78 degrees; the water in the goolah (cooler), 59

ually abandoned, not only the wrecked vessel and her invaluable cargo, but they also left a section of one of the lifeb

d and arrived at the wreck at 4.35 P.M. After a careful examinati

by the governor of Fashoda, together with the yard and sail. This entails the necessity of my

fikeeyah with a letter to the governor of Fashoda, which the Shillooks were to forward immediately. The lette

lso some guinea-fowl, francoli

flooded, except for a space of about a mile from our little camp on the Sobat dubba, which is the highest ground for a great distance, being about fourteen feet above the

(vessels). When she returned with them, all hands were immediately employed in dischargi

etter to the governor of Fashoda, as they fear to pass certain villages with which they have been lately quarrelling. To-day is the c

e, and then securing them by chains to the wreck, we obtained a firm hold. The water having been baled out of the barges, they gradually rose and lifted the vessel several fee

n prepared a bed for her by cutting away the abrupt bank, and forming a shelf on the flooded shore in a depth of three feet of water, upon which we might be able to haul her when floated to the surface. We laid out the steamer's purchase with an anchor secured upon the shore, and the day ended successfully by hauling the wreck exactly parallel to the bank, with her stem and stern-post above the surface. As the current was very powerful, the bow of the wreck had throughout the operation been firmly secured by two anchors laid out up stream.

secured in the same manner. Having manned both purchases, we could manage her as she became lighter. About 250 Shillooks came to assist us under the command of old Quat Kare, who sat in his canoe and directed his people

illooks, with screams and yells, tugged at four ropes fastened amidships, and we succeeded in dragging the vessel from the river's bed, and placing her upon the new shelf that we had prepared for her in little more than three fe

largest and finest vessels of the fleet, perfectly new, and was laden with steamer secti

eck, together with the two kyassas and my diahbeeah, were taken in tow, and delivered at the bank that we had made our head-quarters. Thus

ench trader of my acquaintance, Monsieur Jules Poncet. She also brought the section of the life

ecked vessel. All hands are engaged in caulking ship, re-hoisting yards, ri

es; noon, 81 degrees. Julian and Higginboth

leave. I gave him a musical box and a meerschaum pipe, with a lovely woman's face carved on the bowl. He was very much amused with the idea

t her arrival at Tewfikeeyah. I immediately sen

oxen and ten sheep from Fashoda. The wreck will be taken in tow by the steamer, as her yard was taken on the day of t

came, and I gave him an order to receive half the corn that I left at Tewfikeeyah. This is a reward for Quat Kare, for having assisted to raise the sunken vessel with his peo

the three noggurs that sailed yesterday, and at 3 P.M. we passed the third exactly at the Giraffe junction. We have thus bee

wood; we started at 3.50 P.M. One of the rear boats

he trading vessel of Jules Poncet, that left the Sobat only six days ago, is in sight ahead; thus she has in six days passed the boats that have been twenty-four days from the

the crops having been destroyed by the extraordinary rise of the river. The people have no other grain than the scanty supply yielded by the seeds of the lotus,

el as his vessels can stow, as there is no wood ahead. The vakeel of the station supplied f

passed others, together with the boat of Achmet Effendi, bimbashi. These officers and people are incorrigible; they have idled their time on t

ch bush to the dubba. We shall therefore arrive to-day at about 4 P.M. We have been exactly 19 1/2 hours steaming from Kutchuk Ali's station to the ambatch. We left Tewfikeeyah at 11 o'clock; we

Tewfikeeyah on 11th December. Thus he has been twenty-six days from Tewfikeeyah in reaching the spot this year which he arrived at from the great distance of Khartoum in our former voyage in twenty-two days! Last

eet assembled at the du

sh

P.M., having been delayed two h

en the dubba and the mouth of our old channel. This being completed, I ordered the boats to keep in close line until

oodness, this was clear to that point, a distance of about two miles; but at length we were stopped by vegetation.

eniceps Rex

we distinguished eight sai

rth wind. Raouf Bey a

ked river with much difficulty, and ent

t two miles yesterday and to-d

the channel is much improved since l

(crocodile lake) we found the river blocked up; we therefore cut our way into

essels were much delayed by shallows. I went on and determined upo

rafts of vegetation. The lake of last year nearly choked

From the mast-head it appears that an unbroken sheet of water now exists

be closed at half a mile distance. Explored the new channel for about two miles; in appearance it was a river of 200 or 300 yards wide. At length we a

I found the whole country closed by vegetation. I think the river has opened a new channel, and that the passa

.m. we started, poling round the angle to enter the new channel discovered yesterday. In the evening we all

reaching our old channel in the clear river. Having started at 7 a.m., I returned at 1 p.m. I had

s piece was 600 yards. We at length reached the small lake w

d a quarter up the river, while the fleet w

the five vessels that w

and the fle

Agha who has twelve vessels with

cident occur, he will be at a loss how to act. Juli

nnel of the stream by probing with the twelve-foot pole through the gr

spot near this, the heart of desolation-a tumulus of about half an acre, like the back of a huge tortoise, is

The men cut a

hed about 300 yards, and pushed

a strong breeze, and we entered the lake at 11.20 a.m. There is no change here since last year. The steamer and fleet are close up, but there is a lit

whence we turned back last year. Even now there is only three feet and a half of water, and we shall

ly morning. I explored about seven miles of the river in advance. The

o-day. Set to work with the long-handled hoes, and cut a channel

rough the shallows, but we co

gurs through. The diahbeeah and two noggurs passed ahead for about a mile. We then st

hen we left the dubba, I had left a letter in a bottle, addressed to Tayib Agha, to order

and after two miles was delayed by a small sudd. Care must be taken to sail by

t this season there is only a depth of four feet in man

the fleet, and upon arrival of the steamer and others, I had marked out the channel to be cleared. The men set to work immediately. I then passed ahead with the diahbeeah for about a mile and a half, the depth of water, as us

a month earlier, we could have just passed the shallows, as our vessels draw an average of a little over four feet. No vessels should arrive here later than 1st of January; the entire river is a ridiculous imposition; a month later, the bed will be nearly dry. A mile ahead, both channels are clo

nd them in a terrible fix, as the water is leaving us rapidly, and we m

ed to the fleet and assisted in the tedious work of dragging the vessels over the shallows. In the evening I returned to the diahbeeah, and having dragged the dingy across the sudd, I explored the channel

ed guides seem to know nothing of this horrible chaos, whi

he same manner as last year. I have, therefore, informed them and Raouf Bey officially, that no boats shall retreat, but that should the river run dry, they shall remain here u

I have ordered them to commence to-morrow morning and dig out a straig

wn the character of the river. All hands as usual tugging, hauling, and deepening the river with spades and

ls by discharging cargo in the mud. Our waggons make excellent platforms for the luggage. Even w

must dischar

y-eight vessels with heavy cargoes, through

igher level. I have no doubt that a series of such dams will be required to enable us to reach the Nile. Should it be impossible to proceed with

aw more than three feet. All hands are now employed at this work, as it is imposs

half mile ahead, and return to fetch the remaining baggage. The work is tremendous, and the risk great. The damage of stores is certain, and shoul

rious shallow spots, to tow each boat past as she may arrive. The steamer is hard and fast,

were sick, some had died; there appeared to be no hope. It was in vain that I endeavoured to cheer both officers and men with tales and assurances of the promised land before them, s

e imagined. Thank God, I seemed to bear a charmed life. From morning till night I was exploring in a small boat through mud and marsh, but I was completely fever-proof. My wife was also well. Lieutenant Baker and Mr. Higginbotham had suffered frequently from fever, but these energetic officers rendered me most important service. While I was ahead exploring, sounding, and planning out the route, Lieutenant Baker was commanding and directing the steamer, which appeared more like a huge stranded whale among the rushes than an object adapted for the navigation of this horrible country. I had a first-rate

ing as we rounded a promontory until it attained a width of about half a mile. Following the course of the lake for about five miles, we found a river flowing directly into the long-sought channel. Only one mile and a quarter from the lake, by this small river, we entered the great White Nile! I cannot describe my joy and thankfulness. My men shared my feelings. We all drank water from the turbid river, so unlike the marsh-filtered water of

ut a mile of frightful sudd; but although this sudd covered deep water, it appeared to be shut out from us by solid mud, through which numerous streams percolated, the largest of which was about three feet broad and six inches deep. These small drains concentrated in a narrow ditch, which was the principal feeder of the pond, in which, with s

gave orders for a channel to be opened through the mud and large obstruction into the lake. After some days' hard work, a passage was completed that was sufficiently deep to admit the diahbeeah. It require

mprove the channel sufficiently to admit the

ld have served for a Nilometer upon which to mark the level, like the rock at Assouan. It was simply impossible to move her, as she was as solidl

ically impossible to proceed Those sort of people are soon disheartened, and I made great all

h we lay like a mill pond. Common sense assured me that this must succeed in raising the le

nbotham to prepare two rows of piles which were to be driven across the river. This able engineer set to work with his usual e

re fastened from the top of the front row to the base of the rear.

s concealed a mass of about fifty pounds of stiff clap. These bundles were firmly lashed with twisted rushes. I had 500 corn

h the high reedy grass. This immensely long and thick grass, resembling sugar-canes, was exactly the material that we required. It was this gratis that created

n the dam. Great piles of solid balls of clay, of about 40 lbs. each, had

row of piles. The men were all in their places. The buglers a

n the Soudanis and the Egyptians; this was labour to which the latter were accustomed in their own country. The sailors worked as vigorously as the troops; piles of fascines and clay balls were laid with extraordinary rapidity, while some stamped frantically and danced upon the enta

reased energy worked at the superstructure of the dam, which now rose

, and the entire fleet, were floating merrily in the pond. Thank God, I had forgotten nothing in the preparatory arrangements for t

anxious for the small boat, as a bull hippopotamus made a hostile demonstration. The water was not more than five feet six inches deep; thus as the hippo, after having snorted and sunk, continued to approach the boat, I could distingui

rpoon in the dead hippopotamus as a mark, and hastened back to my diahbeeah for assistance, as the flesh of two hippopotami would be very welcome to the people, who had not received rations of butcher's meat for many weeks. On arrival at the diahbeeah we quickly made sail, and soon returned t

the moon was up. The diahbeeah was close to a mud-bank covered with high grass, and about thirty yards astern of her was a shallow part

end their mosquito curtains to the rigging and to creep beneath; the sailors, after chatting for a considerable time, dropped off to sleep-until

poop-deck, and to the rigging in all directions, rendered it impossible to descend. I at once tore away some of the ties, and awakened the sleepy people. My servant, Suleiman, was sleeping next to the cabin door. I called to him for a rifle. Before the affrighted Suleiman could bring the rifle, the hippopotamus dashed at us with indescribable fury. With one blow he capsized and sank the zinc boat with its cargo of flesh. In another instant he seized the dingy in his immense jaws, and the crash of splintere

ey were always kept fixed in a row, loaded and ready for act

lternately beneath the water in a cloud of foam and wave, that it was

ight at the diahbeeah, I stopped him with a No. 8 Reilly shell.

efforts of so large an animal; this movement rendered the aim uncertain. At length, apparently badly wounded, he

thrown by the high grass. Thinking that he would die, I went to bed; but before this I took the precaution

her instant he was at the diahbeeah; but I met him with a ball in the top of his head which sent him rolling over and over, sometimes on his back, kicking with his four legs a

the left bank. There he remained snorting and blowing, and as the light of the moon was of no service in the dark shado

lder, I fired right and left with the No. 8 Reilly rifle, and I distinctly heard the bullets strike. He nevertheless reached the right bank, when he presently turned round and attempted

eter was 54 degrees Fahrenheit, and the blankets were v

red to be raving mad. His body was a mass of frightful scars, the result of continual conflicts with bulls of his own species; some of these wounds were still unhealed. There was one scar about two feet in length, and about two inches below the level of the surface skin, upon the flank. He was evidently a character of the worst description, but

d bitten out a portion of the side, including the gunwale of hard wood; he had munched out a piece like the

for repair, and these capital workmen turne

overflow the marshes, which enabled us to push all the vessels up

, it will be the greatest possible triumph over difficulties, which no

her yard in a sudden shift of wind, and giv

ing through the sudd as fast a

amer arrived in th

The wind has been very variable for the last few days, and the true north wind appears to have deserted

have deserted. Where these wretched fools intend to wander is quite a speculation;-they appear to

yards through a sudd in a channel through which the fleet must pass, as ther

n of about 300 yards; there will then be no difficulty except a sudd

ing opposite some native huts, close to the channel that we must open to-morrow. These huts are the first habitations

ass and the Pistia Stratiotes. At 10.15 we arrived in the White Nile. There is plenty of w

fleet. At length the men really believed that a country of dry land might lie before them, and that they w

r to-morrow. We remounted the steamer's paddles and tautened all the rigging of the diahbeeah; mended sails, and thoroughly repaired for a start to-morrow. No. 31 being a rotten vessel,

e steamer started at 10.8 A.M., but was delayed one hour and twenty minu

ank. At 6.45 P.M. we stopped, as I was afraid we m

hree natives came to the vessel and r

hes to thirty rounds. The banks are now dry, and about two feet six inches above the river's level. The coun

herefore at 10 we started with light south-east wind, and at 10.30 we returned to

attle, they being hard up for provisions themselves. Their looks belied the excuse. Wind south all day, but changed to

hat on no account shall corn be exchanged in purchases from the natives-otherwise our supply will be stolen wholesale. This

. At daybreak we found Raouf Bey's vessel close up, and many others near. The n

erday and to-day busied i

usef, one of the

ing a noggur and my diahbeeah with about

I caught and punished the captain in the act of selling ou

ost an hour last evening in taking wood from the noggur in tow, as she leaks dangerously. I to

tom dirty. At 3.10 P.M. we left Abou Kookah, and at 9.50 P.M. we arrived at the forest, close to the deserted mission s